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crochetime

~ So many patterns, so much yarn, so little time: story of my hooky life.

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Tag Archives: gauge

Gauge – The Big Issue in crochet

14 Saturday Apr 2012

Posted by Natasja in My crochet

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

crochet, gauge

Gauge. Again! I just can’t get enough of this gauging thing. My latest adventure didn’t seem like a gauging excerice to start off with, but it turned out to be one of epic proportions. Here’s how it went.

The Belle pattern I told you about in the Whispers Cardigan Ta-daaah post, calls for 11 balls of Rowan Cotton Glaze. At almost £5 a ball it’s a pricey for me so I needed a substitute. Where to go if you want to find a substitute yarn? Ravelry’s yarn search of course!

Seeing as Rowan Cotton Glaze is Sport Weight, I ticked the Sport Weight and Cotton boxes. I also entered yardage of 120 – 125 (the exact yardage is 125). These parameters didn’t bring up any results for yarn I could buy in the UK, and what it did bring up, contained wool but I don’t want to use wool.

Then I remembered about a yarn substitution search a did a couple of months ago. I can’t remember the exact details, only that I contacted MCA Direct to ask their advice on a substitution. I provided them with the yarn weight that I wanted to substitute, thinking that that would be enough info.

The lady from MCA Direct who replied to my email, said that she also needs to know the gauge as given on the yarn…… That made me wonder how important gauge was in substituting yarn. A quick Google search confirmed that gauge is the most important – more important than yarn weight in fact! Lesson learned.

(Funny how that email response managed to dislodge itself from my brain, just when I needed it. Nice.)

No. 1 GAUGE. You absolutely must find a yarn whose natural stitch gauge is similar to the one recommended by the pattern. – Jimmy Beans Wool

The gauge of your pattern determines which weight of yarn you should select. – Lionbrand yarns

The most important piece of information you need about the yarn in question is its gauge, or the number of stitches and rows per inch that the designer got when she or he worked the pattern. – About.com

Knowing that gauge is in fact super important, I unticked the Sport Weight option in my Ravelry yarn search, included the gauge and the results showed that Double Knit (note, NOT Sport Weight) Drops Cotton Viscose is the answer to my prayers. It has the EXACT SAME GAUGE, the yardage is just 4m less than Rowan Cotton Glaze and it’s cotton (with a bit of viscose so it’s shiney and drapey.) Best of all, it’s less than half the price of Rowan Cotton Glaze!

See, the Ravelry yarn search shows the Rowan Cotton Glaze at the top of the list, with Drops Cotton Viscose just below.

I bought the yarn from The Crochet Chain (see the Tab above). It arrived super fast. Shade 29, a beautifull light grey with a hint of green. So pretty!

I learned my lesson from last time, so this weekend I did my gauge swatches. See, here it is.

gauge swatch.jpg

Since I had to go up a hook size last time, I started off with a 3.5 mm in stead of the 3 mm used in the pattern. No good. Then I went for my trusted 4 mm and it was spot on with 23 stitches in 10cm. Good ‘ole 4 mm.

Having found the correct crochet hook, I was ready to start with Belle. First off, I have to make the central panel in an open, lacey stitch (the sides and arms are done in the “main pattern” as in the photo above.) Using my 4 mm hook, my central panel was 12 cm wide. It’s meant to be 11 cm wide. Whoops.

Now I had to go down a hook size! I did it all again in a 3.5 mm hook, but still the central panel was too wide. I went down to the recommended 3 mm and voila, 11 cm. I guess I crochet lace patterns more loosely than I do SC and DC’s…

gauge swatch.jpg

Another lesson learned: if your crochet project consists of two different pattern designs, do a gauge swatch for each.

You’ll note that the crochet hook for the central panel is a long metal hook. Not my favourite kind but I don’t have a 3 mm in Clover Soft Touch. I’m so used to my Clover Soft Touch, this regular metal hook seemed way to pointy and kept snagging on the yarn (which is kinda splitty even with my Clover Soft Touch, so with the sharp 3 mm it was even worse).

Hubby to the rescue: he used his Dremel to sand down the very pointy edge of the hook for me. He calls the 3 mm the “pimped hook”. It actually looks like I’ve been crocheting so hard, I wore down the tip 🙂 It works like a charm!

20120414-181104.jpg

Another gauging exercise done and two lessons learned. It seems that gauge really is right up there in things to know when you crochet!

I trust it will be smooth sailing from here on with Belle. I think if the hook and the yarn like each each, it’ll be a good fit. Hey, that sounds a bit like relationship advice. Oh, the things you can learn from crochet.

Me. Wrong? No way.

26 Monday Mar 2012

Posted by Natasja in My crochet, My ramblings

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

cardigan, crochet, gauge

I don’t like being wrong. Most people don’t. Luckily, at 34, I’m old enough to know that at most times I will be wrong and then I’ll readily admit it, but it has to be proven that I was wrong. (No point admitting something when there’s a chance that I could have been right – that’s just losing face for no reason!)

In the spirit of being an adult, and admitting to mistakes, I have to admit that I’ve been proven wrong on two fronts. Both relate to my latest crochet project: The Wearable.

If I admit it, that means it’s been proven, so take heed fellow hookers, don’t make the same mistakes I did.

Mistake no. 1: Gauge swatches are a waste of time.

The pattern (Whispers by Garnstudio), states

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 4 x 4 repetitions = 10 x 10 cm / 4” x 4”

I knew this, what looks like a maths equation, is the gauge guide. I found a couple of videos on YouTube and blog posts that kept on saying how extremely important correct gauge is when you make something that needs to fit well. Got it. Need to make gauge swatch. Need to fit 4 repeats into 10cm.

I started with the recommended 3.5 mm hook. Got 5 repeats in 10cm. One website said that when that happens I need to go up a hook size, the other website said I had to go down. So I did it again with a 3 mm hook. Same thing: 5 repeats. Got out my favourite 4 mm hook and lo and behold I managed 4 repeats! Yeah!!!

With the 4mm hook I made the foundation chain of 132 stitches for size M. It looked a bit too long. Maybe a lot too long, so I measured the chain.

The chain was 72 cm, which is basically the width of the finished jacket in size XXXL according to this diagram! What the hell?! My size is meant to be 53 cm wide. That’s a foundation chain of almost 20cm too long!

Fear not, it’s just the foundation chain. I undid it, and started again with the 3.5 mm hook. Guess what. My 132 stitches made a chain of….53 cm. Spot on!

So, to me, at that stage at least, it meant that my gauge swatch exercise was a waste of time: all I had to do was make the foundation chain for my size and it would have told me if I had the right hook size – WRONG!

After hooking for 30cm, the back piece had “shrunk” in width to be less than size S, even if I stretched it out! I needed to make bigger stitches… which means a larger crochet hook…which means my current gauge was wrong…. which means the gauge swatch was right. Bummer.

Lessons learned:

  • An open, lacey pattern will shrink in width the longer it gets so a long foundation chain is not an indication of finished width.
  • I do not crochet at the same gauge as the Garnstudio people (why would I think I do? Oh yes, because I’m never wrong.)
  • Do a gauge swatch.
  • Do as the gauge swatch says!
  • Frogging 30 cm is much faster than crocheting 30 cm.

2. The pattern is wrong

At the 30cm mark I not only realised the width of my back piece was wrong, but also that it was too long. My pattern stated:

Continue to work diagram M.1 (1st row is now done, beg on 2nd row) = 19-21-23-25-27-29 repetitions. When piece measures 10 and 20 cm / 4″ and 8″ – Read MEASURING TIP, dec ½ repetition in each side

but I read the “and” as an “or”. Don’t ask – I don’t know how that happened. In my mind that sentence didn’t make any sense ergo the pattern must be wrong and I chose to ignore the 10 cm instruction. – WRONG!

I also read “Continue to work in diagram M.1 = 19-21-23-25-27-29 repetitions” as “crochet 21 rows of the M.1 pattern”, in stead of “you should have 21 repeats in a row”. It was this bit that lead me to Ravelry to ask someone for help. I wanted to know how the pattern writers could ask me to crochet 21 rows to reach 10 and or 20 cm, when I was only at 19 rows and already at 30cm long and I haven’t even started decreasing for the armholes yet (hoping of course that someone would say the pattern is wrong).

The lovely Imke Healy answered my question within the hour. Thank goodness for fellow crocheters willing to help out strangers with stupid questions! I’m so grateful to her! She didn’t say the pattern was wrong, but rather said I would have to start  over and pointed out the error of my ways. Tough love.

(By the way, check out her blogpost here. She’s already blocking her cardigan and even modified the sleeves! Strange but true fact: we share the same birthday and are both making blue cardigans. Freaky.)

Lessons learned:

  • Read the pattern.
  • “and” does not mean “or”
  • The chances that a crochet pattern is wrong, is much much much smaller than the chances that I’m reading it wrong.
  • Ask for help.
  • Read the pattern!

Lessons learnt and mistakes admitted. Here’s hoping the front and the sleeves go smoothly.

On a philosophical note, and to make myself feel better, here’s a nice quote.

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